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Tell It Like It Was Here and There
Around Dixon Springs
by Lillian H. Robison
Dixon Springs was considered sacred ground
by the Indians. It was always a favorite camping ground of the
Algonquin Indians. The Algonquin Indians waged relentless war
on the great tribes of the Iriquois who inhabited the territory
south of the Tennessee River. In their pilgrimages to and from
combat, Dixon Springs was one of their favorite camping grounds.
It was named by the Indians, KITCHE-MUS-KE-NEE-BE, meaning Great
Medicine Water, showing their great faith in the curative powers
of the water.
The Indians used to winter at the Springs and there is the story
that at one time the Springs was considered neutral territory
- any and all tribes coming there would lay down their arms while
there. Dixon Springs has been famous for curing the ills of mankind.
All of the Springs have been analyzed as to their mineral and
medicinal contents. Spring number 7, known as Na-Mon-O-Ma meaning
"Water of the Great Spirit" was said to be beneficial
in the cases of Cystitis, Prostatic Trouble, Diabetis, Brights
Disease, and effective in all fevers.
Spring number 1, known as "Old Ironsides", was referred
to by old settlers as the "Elixir of Life". Especially
good for Stomach, Nerve, Kidney, Liver and Bowel Troubles.
Spring number 2, was called "Cupid" also, "Beauty
Spring." It is a grand external remedy for any form of skin
diseases, and especially good for the complexion. It will also
eliminate the poisonous matters from the system that produces
fevers.
Spring number 3, known as "Little Nemo" was ideal for
all diseases of the prostate gland and urinary troubles, also
a strong solvent for uril acid.
Spring number 4, known as "Old Rusty" was a great natural
Blood Restorer, and a specific for Rheumatism, Stomach, Liver
and Bladder Trouble.
Spring number 9, known as "Ae-O-Ma" or "Rock Water"
is said to be radioactive. This water is beneficial to both the
afflicted and to those seeking a wholesome medicinal water, and
is fine for Acid Stomach, Gout, and general Debility.
William Dixon obtained a school grant from Governor French in
1845 for the sum of $100.00. He was one of the first white men
to build a home in this section. He cut and hewed the logs himself
and built his cabin in 1848. This cabin remained on the original
site until in early 1914.
William Dixon sold to George Allen in 1858 for the sum of $2000.
A John L. Stafford had a quit claim deed for the entire park
and must have sold to a James A. Whitesides who moved to the Springs
about 1886 and lived there until 1904 when they moved to a farm.
He sold the Springs to James A. Grove who sold it to G. B. Wheeler.
A man by the name of Sinkenfeller(or something like that) was
a part owner of the hotel, with Mr. Whitesides, for a time. He
was from Paducah, Kentucky. Mr. Whitesides, dug the lake and
built the hotel.
The Springs was called "Allen Springs," the "Resort,"
and later changed to Dixon Springs about 1904 or 1905.
The hotel had a colored band who also served
as waiters. One was a barber. There was also a colored cook.
This cook married a white girl who was a chamber maid. This
was one of the first mixed marriages in this section. They were
run out of the county. She came back years later, but he never
did.
People came to the resort from as far away as St. Louis and Cape
Girardeau. They would come, whole families, with nurses for the
children and remain the entire season - about six weeks. The
same ones, more or less, would come every summer.
During hot weather fans were made from paper and made to move
by pulling a rope. A man would stand outside the dining room
and pull the rope to stir the air and keep the flies off while
the guest ate. The dining tables ran across the width of the
dining room. There was a string band for music to eat and dance
by.
There were no bath tubs in the rooms ---only a pitcher and a wash
bowl. There was an old hall down by one of the Springs. At the
end of this hall was a bath tub for the guests. The guest had
to pay twenty five cents for a bath.
In the winter Mr. Whitesides put up ice for summer use. He had
a sawmill and a large icehouse and put the ice up in the saw dust.
During the winter he was able to put up enough ice for the entire
summer use.
Mr. Dixon deeded a piece of ground to the Methodist church. Mr.
Whitesides deeded ground to the Christian and Baptist churches.
At spring # 7 people would come ten to fifteen miles around to
do their washing. They would bring their wash tubs and kettles
and their dinners and spend the whole day.
In the pool near the spring and below the dam, baptizing was done.
Also, boys used to swim there.They had a merry-go-round pulled
by mules. A man would play the violin while the merry-go-round
went round. Wouldn't the kids love it today? This was owned by
Mr. Green Hazel.
The Fourth of July was like a fair. There were no tables then
so people would spread their dinners on the ground - everyone
had a big time.
James M. Groves got the Springs about 1908.
Mr. C. B. Wheeler got the Spring about 1910. Mr. Wheeler sold
the Springs back to the State on February 13, 1946 for the sum
of $60, 000. C. B. Wheeler and his brother, Fred were traveling
salesman for the Star Brand Shoe Company of St. Louis.
It was said that people who drank from "Old Ironsides"
would never die. It is a known fact that if one drank from this
Spring it would help kidney problems.
When the first telephones were put in people would call the Dixon
Springs Hotel and ask the band to play a number. People would
listen over the telephone. There were no radios then.
Among the several places to see around the Springs was the Devil's
Smokehouse, a cave, and the Fat Man's Squeeze. Both are at nearby
Cedar Bluff.
There was a Christian Church over one hundred years old at the
time it was torn down in the 1960's.
Sometime about 1899 a great-grandmother killed a black bear down
here. They had traveled from Virginia with an old white mule
pulling a one horse wagon. At the time of their settling here
the Indians were very friendly. In 1904 this same family traveled
in covered wagons to Missouri. Covered wagons were pulled by cows,
steers, or oxen. People had their own milk while traveling.
People walked behind and alongside of their wagons. One family
came here from Maryland with oxen pulling their wagon. They wore
out two teams of oxen on the trip. The feet of the oxen wore down
until they could not go on.
There were many little communities in this
area.
"Rock" had two stores, general merchandise
and a post office. One store was owned by Uncle Andy Grisham.
Mr. Grisham would drive all over the county swapping groceries
and yard goods for eggs and chickens. As late as 1900 a Dr. Parmley
lived there. He made calls on horseback, delivered babies, and
tended the sick. The church is now called Mt. Zion. "Rising
Sun" had a store and post office. This is east of Rock.
New Columbia once had a hotel.
"Brownfield" Old Brownfield moved part of the town over
by the railroad and was called New Brownfield. They had a depot,
several banks, several stores and churches. The train ran from
Reevesville to Golconda three times a day - the fare was twenty-five
cents one way. They carried passengers and mixed freight. The
railroad was built about 1900. Horses and mules were used to
pull scrapers to make the railroad bed. Before the Irving Cobb
bridge was built the trains were taken across the river by ferry.
Sometimes it would take two hours to cross. Brownfield had a
flour mill and at one time also had a grist mill. People would
take their shelled corn to be ground and would pay for the grinding
with so much of the corn they had. They would have to wait their
turn - stay all day. While waiting for their cornmeal they would
go fishing.
"Hog-Eye" had a sawmill, a gristmill, a blacksmith shop
and a saloon. Once two men had a fist fight in front of the saloon.
At that time it was thought a disgrace to use a knife or a gun
or for anyone to stop the fight. They fought until the blood
run. At the end of the fight they washed from the same pan of
water - were friends. Their point had been settled and the best
man won.
"Hen - Peck" was the name of a sawmill and grist mill
on Sugar Creek - where the road turns off to Lake Glendale. It
was run by the Phelps.
"Hell's Neck" was a few miles south of Renshaw.
"Perks Station" was near Brownfield - was an old railroad
station.
"Cox Town" was once called Allen Springs. It was a
few miles east of Dixon Springs. there was a mill and a big blacksmith
shop which sat on a big rock near the Baptist church.
"Renshaw" was once called Dixon Springs Railroad Station.
The road that ran from the station to Dixon Springs was called
Metropolis Lane. There was a depot here, also a post office.
"Justice" was two miles toward Golconda from Renshaw.
A boxcar was used as a depot, which was a flagstop. There were
loading pens for cattle and grain there.
"War Trace" was Old Grantsburg about two miles west
of Grantsburg.
"Raum" had a store and a post office.
"Oak" had a store and post office - was east of Delwood
by the big bluffs.
"Flatwoods" was on the big bluffs - near the present
university sheep barns. It is all flat woods.
There was a colored settlement above Glendale
which later moved to the "bottoms." This settlement
was made up of freed slaves brought from the south by the Whitesides.
"Waltersburg" had a store and a church called "Paradise
Church." In the tower of this church was a big clock made
from pieces and parts of farm machinery. Its striking - could
be heard ten or twelve miles away. It is thought this might have
been a Methodist Church. There is, now, a Waltersburg Cemetery
and church - a Methodist Church.
There is a Hodgeville Cemetry, Prospect Cemetery and Bethany Cemetery.
There were seventy or more schools in Pope County. All were one
room schools with one teacher to a school. Seats were behind
stoves anywhere a place could be made. Often they had no desks.
It was not compulsory to go to school so many children did not
go long enough to read or write. Students went to school until
they were twenty-one. If they went to school after they were
twenty-one they had to pay five cents a day. There was Leach
School, Bay Valley School, Lincoln School and Grisham School.
Sixty years ago a married woman could not teach.
Winfield Scott taught his first school for twenty dollars a month
to get experience. He went on to the University of Illinois and
then to the University of Iowa.
At one time Lincoln School had 105 students and Grasty had 107
the year before. Teachers usually got twenty-five to thirty dollars
a month. One man said he would not teach for less than thirty
dollars a month. He never did teach.
At one place there was no school house so school was held in the
home of Bill Ford. The teacher was Usher Robinson - later was
Will Harrison.
"Hound Ridge" school district 18 was named Buckhorn
after the Buck Deer. The community was called Hound Ridge. The
school district was later changed to district 22 - Lincoln School.
The ridge was changed to Walnut Ridge. There was no road on
Hound Ridge only a path.
The First Christian Church at Mt. Olive, southwest of Renshaw
is over a hundred years old.
The first houses were made from logs and they had wooden hinges
on the doors and windows. Soap was used to stop the squeaking
of the hinges. That is homemade lye soap. The first fireplaces
were made from clay and wood. There were cracks in the walls
of the houses and often, in winter, snow would blow in up to two
to four inches even on the beds. The churches were built the same
way. The seats were made from split timber. The floors were
made by putting the smooth side down and the rolled side up (so
I was told) called puncheon floors.
Salesman called on the local stores twice a year, in horse drawn
hacks. The merchants had to buy enough supplies to last six months
to two years.
Doctors made their rounds, usually on horseback. There was a Doctor
Fisher at Brownfield, a Doctor Walker at Grantsburg and a Doctor
Ross at Simpson.
Doctor Fisher was said to have built the first hospital at Metropolis.
Doctors charged $1.50 for a trip to see a patient. To get an
appointment with a doctor one would have to walk to the doctor's
office to make an appointment - if the doctor was out he would
leave a message as to when he would be in. You would leave your
message and go home and wait for the doctor. When he came he
would cut out a piece of paper - any kind would do, mix the medicine
on it with the tip of his knife blade, and would write out the
instructions. Babies were delivered by the neighbor women - a
doctor was seldom called.
There was a Tan Yard at Delwood. They also carded wool. The women
would wash the wool, tie it up in bed sheets and take it to be
carded. Along with the wool they would take so much lard with
so much wool to replace the oil lost in washing the wool. This
was done in the spring. They would spin the wool into yarn and
knit socks, stockings, and petticoats. Seemed they had to knit
all of the time.
There was another Tan Yard two miles west of Golconda. There
the hides were stretched out in the sun to dry. About 1818, this
place was run by Mr. Schuchardt. This place was still running
in 1915. Wool was also taken to Anna to be carded.
"Cooper Place" was a place at the head of new Lake Glendale.
Everything was made by hand - battle staves, barrels, and kegs.
The barrels held about fifty gallons and the kegs about twenty
five. They were made from white timber and filled with sorghum
molasses, vinegar, and kraut. This was a big business for that
time.
A horse thief killed a man in what is now Grantsburg. He hid
in a large pile of logs piled up to be burned. He told the men
he would come out if they would not harm him. They said they
wouldn't - but - when he got out one man grabbed him by the collar
and lifted him off the ground saying, "They would fix him."
They hung him on an old walnut tree which is still standing.
He hung there until someone cut him down and buried him. The
rope hung there until it rotted off the limb it was tied to. The
children would dodge the rope as they did not want it to touch
them.
Prisoners from Pope, Hardin and Johnson Counties were brought
to Grantsburg by surrey loads and taken to prison at Menard.
They would be handcuffed. They would stop at the hotel at Grantsburg
for their meals and catch the train which ran from Carbondale
to Brookport three times a day.
There was a whipping post at the courthouse at Vienna. If a man
got drunk or stole a chicken - some minor thing - he was stripped,
tied to the whipping post and whipped.
The first car in this part of the country ran on kerosene and
weighed about 350 pounds. It had a one cylinder engine. The
wheels were made of wood, wooden spokes like buggy wheels, and
the rear wheels were about four feet high. This car was owned
by Dr. R. L. Whitesides of Grantsburg.
At one time no burial permit was needed to bury a person - until
a Mr. Chatman got it through in Congress, to need one. When a
person died the community would take up a collection. If it was
a woman - some women would make a dress. If it was a man some
man would donate a suit or pair of pants. A man would make a
coffin shaped like the body. The coffin would be lined with white
muslin and a black cloth tacked to the outside. The grave would
be dug the same shape as the coffin. Sometimes the boards of
the coffin top would warp and the body could be seen under the
lid. Boards would be laid on top of the coffin and the grave
filled.
When it came to butchering time all turned out to help one another.
They did this for just about everything. They paid for the help
with meat. They heated the water by putting hot rocks in wooden
barrels of water. Sometimes the barrels broke.
To get salt people would go to Shawneetown. They would let the
water evaporate and take the salt home.
Clothes for men and women - age 17 and over
- were made from sheep wool and cotton woven into cloth called
linsey-woolsey, or sweet linsey. No one wore underclothing or
so I am told. Guess it depends on where they were.
No matter how much money one had for nails, yard goods, thread,
tacks, needles and many other necessities could not be bought.
In later years people were able to go to Golconda and get one
pair of shoes. The women wore high button shoes with brass toes
and the men wore knee high leather boots with brass toes. Sometime
they would buy one pair of shoes (brogans or plow shoes). One
pair for the wife and one pair for the husband. The women had
to work in the fields - along with all the many other things they
had to do. The baby would be put under a bush and an old dog
would sit and guard to keep away the snakes. This did happen
to a man I talked with.
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Note: William Dixon who obtained the land grant
in 1845 was a brother to Vienna Dixon.
Vienna Dixon married Alford Hazel and they
homesteaded the old "Sloan place"
Children
1. Thomas Hazel
2. Marion Hazel
3. Catherine Hazel
4. Ruan Hazel
5. Green W. Hazel (who had the mule pulled merry-go-round.
This copied article is undated and came from
the files of the late Mildred Martin, Pope County, IL. Contributed
by Bettie Davis
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