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My Hometown, Buncombe, Illinois
by Maxine McKenzie
We have heard it said many times as we grow
older, we are always reminiscing and talking about the things
in the past. The past we know, we have lived it but the future
is known only to God.
Some years ago, my mind wandered back to my childhood and my
earliest recollections of my home town, Buncombe, Ill. I sat down
and wrote the following.
It was an Armistice Day Parade after peace had been signed following
World War I in 1918. Every boy and girl of any size, was dressed
in clothing made from red, white, and blue bunting. We marched
proudly down Main Street led by a short Uncle Sam, completely
regaled in striped pants and a tall silk hat, and carrying an
American Flag. The parade ended at the C & EI depot, amid
a deafening din of tin pans, cow bells, whistles and even shot
gun blasts. Everyone was deliriously happy, for now our boys
would be coming home. Of Course, there was also sadness too,
for the ones who had paid the supreme sacrifice.
Buncombe was a thriving little town in those days, not that it
isn't good now, for it has some of the nicest people on earth
living there today. As the song says, "I love those dear
hearts and gentle people who live in my home town." It was
larger then and we lived in a much smaller world.
The business part of town was laid out in a "horse shoe"
shape as I remember it. The big, sprawling Wig-Wam was across
one end, with shops and stores on either side. The depot, with
passenger trains stopping three times a day, two north bound and
one south bound; the flour mill and the mill pond, where we all
skated in the winter time, were back of the Wig-Wam and the stockyards
were north up the railroad tracks.
The Wig-Wam was situated where or near where Route 37 is now
and it was truly a complete store. You could buy everything from
drug sundries to lumber to build an entire house. It was owned
by J. B. Suit, and Thad Proctor and one of the clerks was my beloved
Sunday School teacher, Miss Lou Smith. Another person who is
fresh in my memory along with these, is Aunt Kit Watkins, who
lived in the Suit household.
On the left hand side, Uncle Marion Walker had a good general
store and was helped in its operation by his six grandchildren,
the Hanklas. He and his wife reared them after their mother's
death. He also, bought the farmer's cream, chickens and eggs.
Almost all stores would trade merchandise for fresh eggs in those
days.
W. A. (Uncle Alfred) Walker owned the next store and the home
of M.D. Walker's widow, Roxie Walker, is in its place now. Then
there was the drug store owned by Uncle Will Barnett, where you
could get every kind if medicine for your ills and some sage advice
for your welfare. The new post office building was erected on
the ground where the drug store was situated. The scales were
adjacent to the drugstore and the farmers weighed their grain
and livestock there. Uncle Tom Gourley and sons owned a general
store next to the drug store and besides, the usual merchandise,
they had a feed store.
Across the way or road, Burnett Mcginnis had a up-to-date dry
goods store with the fashions of the day. Between the Gourley
and McGinnis was the town pump, an endless source of water, with
a trough alongside where Uncle Lock Ridenhour watered Old Dock,
his dray horse. The next building was owned by Uncle Eddie Montgomery,
I believe but I don't remember what business he conducted. Later
it was owned by Bennie Mullinax and housed Dr. Russell Main's
office and family. Bill and Edith Kerr own the building now.
We had a veterinarian then, Dr. W. P. Robertson, right on Main
Street. A big rambling post office and general store run by C.
D. Walker and Lula Robertson was on the corner. That spot now
is the new City Hall. the post office had a long side room, containing
among other things, coffins for sale.
Few of us can ever forget our blacksmith shop or jovial old Uncle
Wilkes Gower. He was the personification of the "smithy"
in Longfellow's "The Village Blacksmith" to every Buncombe
boy and girl.
On the other side of the "horseshoe" on the east end
was a two-story store owned by John N. Elkins (I can't remember
it too well). Next was the First State Bank with Calvin Mathis
as cashier. The brick building which housed the bank is still
standing. Next door was a barbershop operated by Andrew Jackson,
better known as the "Squire" where you could get a haircut
for "two- bits," a legal paper drawn up or get married,
as he was also a Justice of the Peace. Then there was a big,
vacant lot where tent circuses, medicine shows and ice cream socials
were set up. In later years, my father, Samuel F. Elkins, owned
a two story building that housed a grocery store with an ice cream
parlor and a 5 and 10 cent store section. The upper story was
rented out for church revivals, lodge meetings, etc. At one time
it was home to the Elkins brood.
Across the street from this store was a large "hole,"
the basement of a burned out building. Jack Willyard's home was
built there. As a child, I expected a big monster to jump out
at me, when I passed that way, after dark.
The big livery stable owned by Everett Carlton was lively in
those days as a place for the men to loaf and swap tales. It
was also our only means of transportation out of town, especially
to the east and west. The rigs were for hire or they would chaffeur
you any place you wanted to go in the deep mud.
"Drummers" getting off the passenger trains were boarded
at Martha Ellen Peterson's Hotel, as well as some of our eligible
bachelors.
The Central Station or telephone office was next door and was
capably operated by Mrs. Andrew Jackson, the mother of Willis
and Everett Jackson. The first restaurant I remember was next
to the livery stable and the owners were Uncle Coon Newton and
his wife.
People came from miles in all directions in topped buggies, buggies
without tops and in wagons to trade in our town. There were hitch
racks on both sides of the streets and all around the Wig-Wam
and depot.
Dear old smiling faced, Dr. Charles D. Nobles lived just off
Main Street. He had his office near the street and I could imagine
I smelled the pills as I walked by. I wonder how many babies
Dr. Nobles delivered in and around Buncombe? I know he delivered
me and my six living brothers and sisters.
There were two churches, the Presbyterian and the Methodist.
Mt. Zion Baptist was about a mile east of town (It still continues
with services over 150 years, 2002). The Methodist Church has
lost its steeple and acquired a new front and basement but otherwise
remains much as I remember it when I went to Sunday School there.
I am sorry to say the church building was sold to the school
a few years ago and now houses the cafeteria and school official's
offices. The Presbyterian Church has become the Church of Christ.
I started to school in an old two-story frame structure with
a winding stairway in the center of the building and a bell tower
on top. Eunice Ragsdale was my first teacher and taught me through
the third grade. We didn't have a kindergarten then, but started
out in the Primary Class. I was promoted to First Grade the first
day of school because I could count to 100 and recite the alphabet.
So you can see there are advantages to having older brothers
and sisters. Brothers in my case.
Buncombe was named, so I have been told, for a county in either
North or South Carolina. Most of our ancestors came to Johnson
County from those southern states according to our histories.
Outside stairs were added to the building as a fire escape and
the inside stairs closed off when I was in the Eighth Grade, I
think. Soon after, the old building was torn down and we had
classes in a two-story building known as the Swain house. The
present school building is where I went three years in High School.
Another thing that "sticks" in my memory is the Barney
Penrod Sorghum Mill which we visited each fall on our way to Grandpa's.
We didn't know much about the "outside world" then,
we didn't worry about atom bombs or energy shortages. We didn't
know how to get a man on the moon, we were just happy to be alive,
well and among friends. Maybe those were the "good old days."
As the poet, E. F. Richardson wrote:
"There ain't nothin' fine er fancy,
Ner no stummick aching style,
For to loosen yer liver and incite yer blood to bile;
Hain't no keepin' up with the Jones,
With frills and flouty gown,
But there's sane and simple livin'
in that little Buncombe town.
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